Archives for Dog grooming category

Beagle Grooming Tips

By Claudia Robbins

Would you like to get the essentials about Beagle grooming? Read on for grooming tips that will help you raise a happy and healthy Beagle.

If you have been looking for a low-maintenance dog with minimum grooming requirements, the Beagle should be high on your list. Beagle grooming is an easy task once you understand how the dog is equipped to survive different weather conditions. The good news is the Beagle is a hound. It is used to tracking prey in rough conditions. The outer coat is thick and helps protect the body, but there are other aspects of grooming you need to know. It’s actually quite simple and requires very little of your time.

Why The Beagle Has Smooth Hair

Beagles have smooth coats of hair, but they need grooming, though only once a month or so. The dog is built to hunt but has a fuzzy undercoat as well to protect it from the cold. Dog owners may literally find it very difficult to penetrate the outer coat with a soft brush. It’s almost weatherproof and needs very little maintenance. If it’s bred indoors, Beagle grooming once a week helps keep in touch and notice signs of infection, if any.

Characteristics Leading To Grooming Schedule

  • The Beagle appears to have thicker hair in the winter as protection from the cold. However, it does tend to lose hair in spring, which is why brushing hair every week helps the dog lose less hair overall.
  • The dog is blessed with a powerful sense of smell which takes it out on tracking events. It finds its way through thick jungle growth passing through excretion of other animals. The Beagle won’t stop until it reaches its destination and will sniff itself to glory gathering all possible sorts of infection. The thick outer coat does afford solid protection, but what you have to watch out for is infection in the ears.

Bathing A Small Dog Is Easy

  • You could bathe your Beagle in a small tub without much difficulty. Use room temperature water to soak the coat up to the skin. A gentle dog shampoo can be used to massage lather into the hair. Some dogs may be a bit wary of getting wet, but initial Beagle grooming training helps the dog adapt to water as long as it is done once a month or so.
  • The dog accessories industry has gathered momentum over the years. You are now able to buy conditioners and specialized shampoos capable of protecting the dog from infection, as well as keeping its hair healthy without much shedding.
  • Other aspects of your Beagle grooming such as trimming nails and removing wax from the ears can be done as needed. You do get specialized ear-cleaning dog products, so it’s just a matter of choosing the right one for your Beagle.
  • Brushing a grown-up Beagle’s teeth may not be an easy exercise unless you introduce brushing sessions when the dog spends its first few days in your home as a pup. Teething is a natural phenomenon and must be considered while brushing teeth.

And now I would like to invite you to get immediate access to free information about the perfect, step-by-step grooming routine for your Beagle at
From Claudia Robbins at My Beagle Training

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Aug 16, 2012 | 0 | Dog breed information, Dog grooming

Choosing The Right Dog Brush – What You Should Consider When Buying A Dog Brush

By Mike T Simpson

When deciding on which brush to choose you should make you decision taking into account which breed it is and what type of coat it has. If not sure which brush to choose it would be wise to ask a professional dog groomer or your veterinarian.

The use of a quality dog brush is an important part of dog grooming as it will help to keep your pet’s coat shiny and healthy by removing loose hair, mats and tangles. Brushing your dog regularly therefore is very important, second only to a healthy diet in maintaining his overall good health and well being.

You will find countless brushes, rakes and combs available to choose between that it may seem an impossible task to select a suitable one, for without the right one, that’s suitable for your dog, it will be far more difficult to keep his coat looking fabulous.

For dogs that are vulnerable to skin disorders you will need to select a product whose bristles have tips that are rounded as they that will be far gentler on his skin.

For dogs that shed hair, the slicker brushes are a good choice. These brushes are very good for use on long-haired dogs as they consist of metal bristles and can be bought in a wide choice of bristle stiffness’s. To avoid irritating you dog’s skin make sure that the ends of the bristles are coated before you buy.

The Porcupine Brush is ideal for dogs with long hair as it incorporates both short and long bristles making it ideal for the removal of loose hair and other debris.

Rubber gloves and brushes are dog grooming tools that are well liked for use on short-haired dogs for delicately massaging your dog whilst at the same ridding him of loose hair. These types of brushes and gloves also have the advantage of being able to be used when your dogs coat is wet or dry, making them excellent for use when bathing your dogs as they will not rust. A particularly good one is the Kong Zoom Groom which has soft rubber spikes instead of bristles and is excellent for use when bathing your dog.

Brushes that have both bristles on one side of the brush and pins on the other, commonly called combination brushes are great for general brushing and for sorting out hair tangles and mats depending on which side of the brush you use.

Whichever brush you decide to use, you must always be gentle and brush in the direction of the lie of hair not against it, otherwise you will find that you dog will make himself scarce when he sees you get the brush out.

If you want to save the expense on paying for your dog to be groomed professionally then it is something you can undertake yourself. By getting the correct tools for the job in hand and taking advice where needed you will have a well groomed dog to be proud of and the satisfaction of having done it yourself. If you would like to train your dog yourself as well checkout my Dog Training Academy and start training your dog today. Don’t you owe it to yourself and your dog?

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Jun 02, 2012 | 0 | Dog grooming

My Dog Has Mange: What Should I Do?

By Christina Graham

Just like any dog lovers out there, I try my best to give my dog the best possible care he needs. So when I found out that my dog was itching uncontrollably for days, whimpering and crying, and biting in to his skin, I immediately realized what was happening to my dog. I found out that my dog had mange, and that he needed to be treated immediately.

What is Mange?

Mange is a skin disease caused by parasites that may cause severe itching to your dog. Mange has three forms known as sarcoptic, demodectic, and notoedric. Sarcoptic mange ( sarcoptes scabei ) also known as scabies, may lead to intense itching and skin lesions to animals that is caused by tiny mites. Demodectic (demodex canis) however, is the uncommon form of mange. The demodex mite can cause your dog to have dermatitis, hair loss, and secondary skin infections that can lead to skin lesions. Notoedric (notoedrescati) is a contagious disease. The mite responsible for this is similar to those of a sarcoptic mange.

What are the Symptoms of Mange?

Mange is common among puppies and dogs that are less than 18 months. The symptoms can depend on the type of mange that is present on your dog. These symptoms can either be hair loss, severe itching, frantic scratching, body sores and scabs, bald spots and reddened skin. These symptoms may be visible on the face, legs, elbows and your dog’s ears, and it can immediately spread on your dog’s body.

Is there any Treatment?

Mange can be cured. I immediately gave our dog treatment for his disease. But if your dog is still a puppy, from ages 18 months and under, it is more advisable to have your puppy injected with the medication (skin treatments are toxic for dogs, especially when it’s used frequently) so he won’t have to lick it off of his body. After that, you need to go to your vet every week to have him checked to see if there was any progress or improvement with the health of your dog.

You can also prevent mange from spreading to other pets and even humans by isolating your dog while he gets his treatment and medication. You need to regularly replace his bedding and clean his collar so the mange won’t breed or stay on his collar and bed.

But as always, prevention is always better than cure. So it’s always better to have a regular check up with your veterinarian to ensure your dog’s health. And always provide the proper nutrition you dog needs as the healthier a dog is, the less likely he is to be affected by any illness or disease.

Christina Graham has been a veterinarian surgery tech and/or dog groomer for over 15 years. And in those years has gained an invaluable knowledge regarding a dogs health and nutrition. That’s why she created to dispel any false myths and offer an honest helpful insight into the importance of good nutrition and a quality dog vitamin supplement for your dog. Go to to learn even more.

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May 15, 2012 | 0 | Dog grooming, Dog health

Your Dog Doesn’t Like Bathing/Grooming?

By Terry Vaught

Some dogs do not like to be bathed, brushed, combed, have their nails trimmed or grooming.

This almost always has to do with the way they were raised and how they were introduced to a bath, brush, comb, nail trimming or grooming.

An exception to this might be a dog with physical problems, where grooming causes some kind of physical discomfort.

The bad news is this can be a big problem.

A dog that can’t be brushed or groomed because they are so unruly, with barking, biting and overall struggling, is going to develop problems. You won’t be able to trim their nails easily so you will more often than not let it go. The nails will get too long and can even curl around and start growing back into the leg. They can cause the toes to splay, resulting in flat feet and back problems. Walking can become painful because the nails are so long and of course they will easily scratch you. This also increases the risk of a nail getting caught on something and ripping off which may need vet care.

If you can’t comb or brush your dog they will get mats in their hair. These mats also become irritating to the dog which would feel like continuously having your hair pulled. You also cannot bathe the dog because when they get wet it will tighten the mats and become painful for the dog which also makes it much more difficult for the mats to be removed. When this happens you will need to go to a groomer and get the dog de-matted and this can be time-consuming for a groomer and costly for the customer. In many cases the only thing a groomer can do is shave the dog entirely.

The good news is, you can train your dog to accept being groomed, combed or brushed and have its nails trimmed without struggling.

At the earliest age possible introduce your little friend to these items:

- Comb and brush

- Nail clippers or a dremmel

- Electric clippers. If you don’t have professional clippers and don’t plan to use them to groom, you can use an electric shaver.

- A bottle of shampoo

The purpose at this stage is to just get your dog used to them, not actually groom them.

Again, at the earliest age possible, take each foot and gently massage it. You want your dog to allow you to touch and hold his feet without a reaction.

Look in his ears and mouth also so he can get used to someone doing that.

If you have an older dog who is difficult follow the same procedures as if it were a puppy.

At first, just let them smell and get used to what these tools are, but do not ever let them bite these tools.

A dog’s strongest sense is smell. Hold the tools out for your dog to sniff them then place them against the dog so he can feel them.

Turn on the clippers or razor and just let them feel the vibration of it and get used to the sound.

Continue doing this exercise until your dog accepts the tools and products as nothing special and is not bothered by the sound of the clippers or the feel of the vibration.

Also continue touching/holding each foot to keep him used to having them touched and held.

Next, you will start to use the tools on your puppy but before you do take him for a nice long walk. A tired dog will be more relaxed and easier to work on.

Now, just start with the basics. Get a brush or comb while he is sitting or lying down and just sit with him, gently pet him. This isn’t playtime, its time to be relaxed, so do not show any excitement. When he is calm, slowly brush or comb him. If he starts to bite at the brush or struggle, stop, wait a few moments and try again. If it is a difficult dog don’t try to comb him from head to tail. Instead just pick a smooth part of the body and brush there. As long as your dog is ok with what you are doing keep going. You should try to do it everyday in the beginning and you may need to do this for a few days or a week depending on how often you do it. Reward him when he is good.

You can also just let your grooming tools/products stay near him if he is just laying quietly somewhere so he learns that seeing them doesn’t mean anything is going to happen but never allow him to play with or chew on them.

Gradually increase the amount of time you spend combing him but always do it gently and slowly. Try trimming a toenail and if that goes well do another.

A note about nail trimming. We prefer to use a dremmel, the kind you can get at Home Depot. This allows you to get the nails shorter and you can round them off so they are nice and smooth.

Do not yell at him if he doesn’t get it right away. You need to be calm. When you do an exercise always end on a positive note and be sure you don’t stop this exercise when he is acting up or struggling or you will reinforce in him that acting up gets you to stop.

If you do these things often and calmly you CAN get him to enjoy being groomed and the professional groomers will really appreciate this and have a much easier time. If he is running away put a leash on him before you get any grooming tools to practice these exercises.

How is he when you bathe him?

If that’s a problem follow the same kind of steps and remember don’t yell at him.

Some dogs like to bite at water from a hose which makes it very difficult to give them a bath.

To stop this behavior first introduce your dog to a hose with the water off.

Note: it will probably be mush easier to do this training with your dog on a leash.

Move the hose around, hold it against him and just let him get used to it. Don’t let him get excited or bite at it.

Next, turn the water on and let it run out of the hose with the hose on the ground. Don’t let him play with it or go after the water. When he is to a point where he ignores this, pick up the hose and spray water. If he shows excitement and bites at it stop and correct him. You don’t need to strike or hit your dog, just a firm “no” (that means firm, not loud).

Continue this exercise until your dog is no longer interested in biting the water or water coming out of the hose.

When you get to the point where your dog will ignore water from a hose, while he is on a leash go (for better control) go ahead and spray him with it. He should stand calmly while you do this. Correct him if he bites at the water. If he doesn’t you are moving too fast so go back to the previous exercises until he is more relaxed with water coming out of the hose.

If your dog is afraid of the water from a hose or Fawcett, introduce it to him slowly and gently for short periods of time. Gradually increase the time as he gets used to it and remains calm.

When your dog is good or when you finish an exercise, reward him with a treat.

Don’t forget to exercise him before you start, he will be more relaxed. A walk is better than running around as a high energy session will get his adrenaline going.

This will work but you need to do it often and be calm and consistent.

A long-haired dog will likely need combing once a day. Mats and tangled hair can form very quickly on long-haired breeds so be thorough and comb everywhere including the chest and underarms, the tail and around the butt.

With a long-haired breed you should use a comb, not a brush. The soft bristles of a brush won’t get down to the skin to separate the hair and will just smooth the top. The teeth of a comb will reach down to the skin and when you comb it will pull out the loose hair in the undercoat as well as separate the hair to prevent tangles and mats. Combing often will also alert you to any bugs like fleas or ticks, will help you to quickly identify any skin conditions before they get bad, and keep your dog cleaner.

A well-groomed dog will feel better, look better and keep your house cleaner.

Most all dogs will come to enjoy this time you spend together and it can be a relaxing experience that your dog will enjoy and further strengthen the bond between you. It will also be one more thing that will help to reinforce that you are the leader.

Terry and Debbie are the owners of This is a pet boarding kennel and grooming business serving the Tampa, FL area. We have extensive experience in pet care, breeding and showing dogs. If you are going to be in the Tampa area and need a kennel or grooming service please contact us.

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Feb 09, 2012 | 0 | Dog grooming

Magical Pointers on Your Dog Grooming Scissors

By Arun Kumar S

Just like our own products have a set life span, so do all the things that we buy for our pets. Their foods and personal care items must all be used for only as long as they can, and must be replaced periodically. This is true for anything that you buy for your dog.

Dog grooming scissors are not used very often. We do not always groom our pets at home, and take them to the salon intermittently as well. What is more, our dogs do not need to be groomed as frequently as we do. Given this scenario, owners are often tempted to pick up dog grooming scissors that are not of the highest standard. The belief is that it is only for the fur of the dog, which requires little show. What is more, since it is not being used, it can be kept around for much longer.

While the style of your dog’s hair may not be of highest priority, and rightly so if you have a dog which does not have very long hair. However, it is critical from the point of view of health and hygiene. Dogs can pick up skin infections and conditions very easily, and they can then start to spread infections across to others as well. This is why dog grooming scissors must be sanitized and also phased out at regular intervals.

Overuse and disuse are both reasons for damage. Even though used sparingly, dog grooming scissors must be replaced with a new pair with time. There are ways in which you can notice quite easily that a new pair is necessary. The most obvious among these are when the scissors start to look rusted, or if the edges get blunt. Another good tell tale sign is when you feel that the scissors do not respond to your touch like they should. Scissors should, in such cases, be replaced at once.

However, it is not only in these instances that you should change the scissors. Whenever you feel like the scissors have enjoyed a long life, you must look to bring in a new pair whenever you can. To be able to prolong the life and improve the quality of your dog grooming scissors, you can start by buying a good quality pair. They will automatically keep better and give you better results. You can further be more conscious about the way that you handle and care for them, and you will see that your scissors will stay with you for much longer.

For more information on dog grooming scissors –

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Feb 02, 2012 | 0 | Dog grooming

Mitaban for Demodectic Mange: Friend or Foe?

By Simon Tong

On paper, Mitaban seems like the best weapon any dog owner can have against mange, especially the demodectic variety; you pour a liquid all over an affected dog’s body and it promptly kills all the mites responsible for the skin problem. Do this a couple of times and the bugs will be gone and your dog will recover. How easy!

However, things are never that simple in the real world. Mitaban, while still endorsed by some vets and owners also has its fair share of critics, and they are very adamant about preventing the use of the product as an option for demodectic mange treatment.

And the most astounding thing about the debate? The critics may be right after all.

The Basics

Mitaban is actually the name of a medicinal product, with Amitraz as the active ingredient. However, Mitaban, as with all other super brands in the commercial world today, is synonymous with the drug itself.

The product is marketed as a treatment option for mange in dogs, and is intended for use as a sort of insecticide – any demodex mite that comes into contact with the solution will be poisoned and die in a short amount of time.

The drug itself is produced as a liquid-based solution contained in small bottles, and normally used only after giving the dog a bath. The solution is very concentrated, however, so the instructions for its use strongly emphasize diluting the solution with water before administering to the dog. Once that is done, the diluted Mitaban is poured over the dog, making every effort to ensure that the skin is completely covered.

The instructions also recommend applying the solution directly on the skin surface, even going so far as to suggest that the fur on long-haired dogs be shaved away to enable better access to the skin. This is because of the way Mitaban works: once applied, the demodex mites living on the dog’s skin are exposed to the drug, which will begin the process of culling their numbers. This is done by disrupting the nervous systems of the mites, which will paralyse and eventually kill them.

An Efficient Pesticide

The nice thing about Mitaban/Amitraz is that for the most part, it lives up to its expectations. It’s a merciless killer that will eradicate the mite population in just a couple of doses, and its repelling properties are also able to ward off any new mites hoping to get on board. This is why the instructions suggest giving a dose after a bath; the solution will be washed away and rendered ineffective as a result.

In addition, the cost for this treatment is relatively affordable as well, compared to other methods such as Ivermectin or Interceptor. A standard bottle of Mitaban usually costs less than 50 USD, and contains enough for several doses before running out.

Because of the perceived effectiveness of the product, as well as the low costs involved, it’s no wonder that many vets all over the world use it as one of the remedies for demodectic mange. For the frustrated dog owner looking for a quick fix to their mange problem, Mitaban seems to be the perfect solution.

But if Mitaban was that good a product, why then are there still detractors claiming that it actually worsens your dog’s condition instead of curing it practically overnight, as everyone else seems to say? Is it really a bad idea to use the Mitaban/Amitraz dip for your dog?

A Double-edged Sword

In order to understand where the naysayers are coming from, it is necessary to go back and understand how Mitaban supposedly gets rid of the mange mites in the first place. As previously discussed in the earlier chapters, Mitaban works by interfering with the nervous systems of the mites, which will paralyse and kill them. Sounds quick and clean, right?

As it turns out, apparently not.

The thing with Mitaban is that it does not discriminate in whom it affects. It is still not clear how Amitraz really manipulates the nervous system, but what is known is that any living thing that touches the substance will experience the negative effects commonly used to get rid of the mites.

So, what does this mean? To put it simply, the Mitaban affects your dog just as much as the mites it is supposed to kill.

Do recall that the drug is poured over your dog’s body in order to get to the mites. However, one major point many people don’t realise is that in the process of penetrating the mites, the Mitaban also gets absorbed by the dog’s skin at the same time, with the same negative effects.

As a result, the Mitaban will unavoidably poison your dog, along with the mites. The only way to ensure that the treatment remains safe is to ensure that the dosage is enough to just kill off the mites, without inflicting too much damage on the dog; an excessively strong dose can most assuredly cause fatal damage to both the dog and the mites, which is honestly the very worst outcome imaginable!

Negative Side Effects

Even a perfectly measured dosage cannot guarantee the prospect of having no side effects whatsoever. Many dog owners who have tried Mitaban as an option for getting rid of demodectic mange have reported some negative reactions experienced by their dogs. Their symptoms can range from increased aggressiveness to severe lethargy, and can cause vomiting and weakness, among other things. In the long term, the drug can also damage the liver systems and cause diabetic-type diseases.

The only thing worse about hearing all these side effects is that they are only experienced by normal dogs with no genetic allergies whatsoever. For those with a natural allergy to drugs like Mitaban, such as Border Collies or other herding breeds and even more besides, the reaction experienced by them is severely amplified. Even the tiniest dose may see them lying motionless on the floor for the entire day, incapacitated by the effects of the Mitaban solution. A normal dose would most definitely be fatal for them.

Final Thoughts

It would be wrong to say that Mitaban is completely ineffective against demodectic mange – it definitely is. It is able to eradicate the mite infestation relatively quickly, which will stop the progress of the skin problem.

However, it is because of this perceived ‘easy fix’, as well as its myriad of side effects that lead to misuse and consequent worsening of the dog’s health. Mitaban, as has been stressed many times over, is a very potent drug, which affects more than just the mites it is meant to treat. In fact, every instruction or guide for the product advises the user to put on a pair of protective gloves before administering it, and further stresses the need for safety when doing so. If it was truly that toxic for even the owner to handle, what does that say for its effect on the dog itself?

The drug is only available through a vet’s prescription, with evidently good reason; its usage is and should be dictated firmly by the professionals who know best. For their part, a vet is able to determine if the breed is capable of withstanding the side effects, as well as the suitable dosage before suggesting its use. Some of the better ones will even offer to demonstrate by performing the first couple of dips themselves before entrusting the owners with the task.

Once left alone, however, the problem resurfaces. Are the measurements correct? Will it cause severe side effects? What if there is a mistake made somewhere?

Yes, Mitaban can be used as an effective weapon against demodectic mange, but with the negative aspect of harming the dog attached to it, is it worth using? Only the owner himself, I’m afraid, can answer that question.

Simon has a miniature schnauzer and owns a website devoted to gathering information about dog skin problems. If you are thinking of using something else other than Mitaban for your dog’s demodectic mange, read this article to learn more about the different types of treatment available. Alternatively, visit for more information about demodectic mange in general.


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Jan 04, 2012 | 0 | Dog grooming, Dog health

The Life and Times of the Flea

by Janie Woodard

The irritating, biting insect known as the flea can make both you and your pet unhappy. Across the world, over 2000 varieties of the flea have been found. The flea’s life ranges anywhere from 14 days up to 2 years. Humidity and heat aid in the egg-laying process while hot, dry periods help with the adult flea population. While the conditions during the summer months make breeding easy for the flea, once the weather turns fleas like to winter in your home.

Fleas are athletes. They can jump as high as 8 inches vertically and 16 inches horizontally. With this athleticism they can enter your residence even if your pets never visit the outside world. They can hitch a ride on your pants, your socks, and blankets or maybe you bring home a new pet. Fleas also like other animals, such as squirrels, rabbits, ferrets and a few additional warm-blooded beings.

There are four life stages of the flea. These stages are the egg, the larvae, the pupae, and the adult and I have outlined them below.

Egg stage:

The female flea can lay 20-40 eggs a day with the eggs hatching in 1-10 days.

Larvae stage:

Once the larvae hatch, they find a dark place and feed on flea waste and debris. They molt at least two times and spin cocoons and become pupae. This stage lasts 5 to 10 days.

Pupae stage:

The pupae spend 8 or 9 days in their cocoons becoming adults, waiting for signs that it is time to exit the cocoon. This stage can last for 174 days!

Adult stage:

Once the flea finds a host, aka your pet, they leave the cocoons, find a mate, and the party begins again. If your pet has no flea protection, an adult flea can live on them for up to 3 months.

Flea protection is not only for your pet. It is for you and your home as well. So, how do you protect yourself?

Frontline flea and tick protection is your front line of defense. It is the #1 flea and tick product recommended by veterinarians. Frontline offers a range of products to meet your pet’s needs. From monthly applications to Frontline spray for pets that can be used as needed. This product can be used on all animals from 8 weeks old regardless of type or size. Meaning you can use it on your kitten and your large dog.

Vacuuming daily is a must for your home. Proper waste disposal is very important. Empty the trash into a plastic bag, seal and remove the bag from your home. Laundering your pet’s bedding in hot, soapy water and spraying the areas where your pet lays is also necessary. Again, Frontline spray can be used for this purpose.

Don’t forget the yard! If your neighbor’s dog has fleas, you will likely have fleas in your yard. Keeping the grass trimmed and spraying the border of your yard will help keep things under control. It has also been noted that a specific herb, Pennyroyal, planted around your home and pets’ kennels may also help in the control of fleas.

Flea control is an ongoing problem for most pet owners. Keeping ahead of the game is the goal!

An animal lover since earliest memories. I have the pleasure of spending my life with a variety of animals. I am always looking for information and remedies to make my life and my pets life more enjoyable.

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Dec 08, 2011 | 0 | Dog grooming, Dog health, Tips

Oster A5 Turbo 2-Speed Professional Animal Clipper Review

By Guy Harmon

Grooming is definitely an important part of being a pet owner. One of the most essential tools for grooming your pet is a good set of clippers so that you can make them more clean looking and presentable. Among the many producers of animal clippers is Oster. We will be reviewing one of their products, the Oster A5 Turbo 2-Speed Professional Animal Clipper.

What Are The Features?

This grooming clipper made by Oster is sure to help you groom pets in your household such as dogs and cats. It has new technologies built into it so that giving them a haircut is simpler. Weighing at 2 pounds, it has a lot of features in its relatively compact shell. Being both strong and reliable at the same time, it’s designed for heavy duty use. It’s powered by a universal rotary motor that is capable of operating at 2 speeds. At its low speed, the clipper operates at 3000 strokes a minute. It will operate at 4000 strokes a minute when switched to its high speed. It’s compatible with all types of A5 blades and Take-Down-Quick blades. These blades are easily detached using its efficient detachable blade system. Standard equipment for this clipper is the silver ion coated blade that prevents the growth of bacteria and mold. Additional equipment includes a blade cover, cleaning brushes, blade oil, and an instructional manual. To top it all off, Oster is providing this product a 1-year parts and service warranty.

What Are Customers Saying?

There are a lot of reviews for the Oster A5 Turbo 2-Speed Professional Animal Clipper and most of them are generally positive. The first thing that owners notice about this clipper is that it cuts hair very efficiently. The combination of a powerful motor and a sharp blade allows it to cut through the toughest coats you can find. In addition, it’s built to be tough and will last you a really long time with good care. On the downside, adaptor kits don’t work for this product. Another concern for this blade is that it has a tendency to overheat, which can hamper its usefulness and durability. If you’re going to use it as a commercial clipper, it may not be a good idea because of the overheating issue.

To close this review, what can be said about the Oster A5 Turbo 2-Speed Professional Animal Clipper is that it’s one efficient clipper. Overheating issues aside, it’s very good in doing what it does, and its ease of use is always going to be an asset.

We highly encourage you to read more about Dog Grooming Clippers if you’re thinking about buying one. Another great clipper to read about is the Oster Golden A5 Clippers.

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Dec 02, 2011 | 0 | Dog grooming

Bath Time For Your Dog – 10 Helpful Tips

By Karen Dinsmoor

Is your pooch stinky? Itchy? A canine Pigpen? It’s time for a bath! Here are some tips and suggestions for a productive bath time.

1) Use a shampoo with a pH balance for dogs, human shampoos have a different pH that will dry and irritate their skin.

2) Find the appropriate shampoo for your dog… are they allergic? Do you want a shampoo and conditioner in one? a brightener if you dog is a light color? Calming shampoo with essential oils for a stressed pet?

3) Pick a shampoo without synthetic chemicals, shampoos with synthetic chemicals are harsh and irritating, they will absorb into their skin and yours when applied.

4) If you have a gentle natural shampoo with the correct pH balance you can bathe your dog as often as needed.

5) Brush! Brush! Brush! With the correct type of brush for your pet’s coat and coat appropriate comb for long coats; loosens dirt, hair and stimulates natural oils. This is a good time to check their skin and coat for problems you may not have noticed before.

6) Make sure you have everything you need right there with you, makes life easier.

7) Keep the water lukewarm to just cool, wet down to skin. For thick coats a bath brush can help get the soap down to the skin, don’t forget the underside, paws and rear. Avoid soap around eyes, ears, and mouth, use a wash cloth if needed.

Then Rinse! Rinse! Rinse! and Rinse some more, any shampoo left could cause skin irritation, be especially careful with dogs with under coats.

8) If using a towel to dry you don’t have to scrub, they’re going to shake no matter how much water you absorb off of them so just blot, besides if their skin is already irritated you’ll just make it worse… just absorb the excess water and they are ready to air dry.

Using chamois leather is another option, dries faster than a towel and leaves their coats soft and shiny… again, blot and air dry.

You can use a hair dryer for drying their coat, there are special dryers on the market for dogs now because they require a very low temperature setting. If you use a regular hair dryer use the lowest gentlest setting, keep the nozzle moving and far away, their skin will burn easily if you are to close, it doesn’t take much heat to dry their fur.

9) This is a good time to clean ears since their ears will be moist and easy to gently wipe out, also check for odor which could mean beginnings of an ear infection, better to catch it early.

10) Doggie bath robes are really practical, they keep the majority of the water off your floors and furniture, they keep your dog clean for a while, and they keep your dog from being chilled if the air is cold.

After their bath tell your pooch how good he/she is… don’t forget a treat! Happy Bath!

Poochamundo, an alternative product dog site, offers assistance to canine parents who believe in the benefits of Chemical-Free, Non-Toxic products for the physical and mental well-being of their dogs.

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Nov 07, 2011 | 0 | Dog grooming

Demodectic Mange: 4 Questions You Need To Ask

By Simon Tong

Demodectic mange is one of two different types of a skin problem called mange, which affects dogs around the world. The demodectic type may look like the milder version of the two, but it doesn’t mean that it can be taken lightly – if spotted in older dogs, it could mean the presence of other, more serious conditions below the surface.

This article will provide more detailed information that about mange of the demodectic variety.

What is demodectic mange, exactly?

Demodectic mange, known otherwise as follicular mange or red mange, is a medical condition that irritates the skin of a dog, causing it to become inflamed.

The main characteristics of demodectic mange include a development of scaly textures on the skin, as well as hair loss and inflamed skin. In more advanced conditions, oozing pus can also be found on the skin, which will harden and eventually produce a crusty texture. The problem areas are usually not itchy, however.

Demodectic mange typically appears in dogs that do not have a fully functioning immune system, such as puppies, dogs of old ages and dogs that have had their immune systems weakened in some form.

What causes demodectic mange?

This skin condition can usually be blamed on the presence of the demodex mite. These little bugs can’t usually be seen with the naked eye, but they strongly resemble tiny cigars with legs when viewed under the microscope.

The demodex mite can be found in virtually every dog in existence. The only reason why they have not caused a ‘mange epidemic’ yet is that these mites aren’t actually very tough; they are easily beaten by the immune systems present in the bodies they live in. As a result, demodex mites only exist in a tiny amount, and are too weak to cause any serious damage.

However, as you may have guessed, that is not true for puppies, old dogs and dogs that are ill. Their immune systems aren’t working at their usual capacity, which gives the demodex mites a foot in the door – so to speak – thereby causing all sorts of skin problems.

There are also some very rare cases where the mites have multiplied themselves to such an extent that they can overpower a dog’s defences, giving them the opportunity to increase their numbers exponentially and causing other complications as a result. In these cases, the dog’s condition is considered severe enough to warrant an emergency visit to the vet. Some dogs may even reach such an advanced stage of demodectic mange that there is no other choice but to be put down by the vet. Granted, such a scenario would be very rare indeed, but it also proves that demodectic mange is not something to be taken lightly.

How do demodex mites harm dogs?

The demodex mites make their home in the hair follicles of dogs (thus giving it the alternative name of ‘follicle mange’). The problem starts when the rapid reproduction of mites causes the follicles to be inflamed, thereby causing the hair to fall off. This is why one of the most obvious symptoms of demodectic mange is a drastic loss of fur.

However, hair loss and inflamed skin are not the only things that demodex mites can cause. If you will recall the part about rare fatal cases briefly discussed above, it shows that the mites are also capable of disrupting the immune system of the dog entirely. When that happens, the dog will be vulnerable to a host of other diseases unrelated to mange, which will complicate things a lot more.

Demodectic mange also causes your dog to become unsightly, something that will surely cause any dog owner to be distressed.

How did my dog get this, anyway? And is it contagious?

Here’s a bit of good news: Demodex mites are not contagious at all. It’s very uncommon for a dog to get it by interactions with other dogs. It’s also impossible for humans to be affected by any interaction with a dog that has demodectic mange, so don’t worry about getting any of those while treating them.

But of course, you may be wondering, ‘How do dogs get this problem, then?’

The real answer is that their own mothers were the initial source of the demodex mites, while they were still puppies.

It’s very possible that when the puppies were very young, perhaps even when they were just out of the womb, some of the mites would already have turned to them as their host of choice. The lack of a functioning immune system in the very early days of a dog’s life may well be the window of opportunity the mites needed to increase their population exponentially.

If you think about it for a while, this is actually in line with the fact that older dogs and sick dogs are prone to demodectic mange as well, because their immune systems were also malfunctioning.


Demodectic mange seems to be a rather benign problem; they don’t affect the average adult dog, they get killed by immune systems that work correctly, and they aren’t contagious at all. While it is true that they don’t cause much harm to most dogs, it still doesn’t mean that you should treat demodectic mange lightly. For one thing, a severe case of demodectic mange usually means that another health problem is threatening your dog.

Apart from that, they can also cause a lot of trouble with the fur and skin. This can mean a source of misery for you in regards to your dog’s appearance as well as health, if it somehow manages to become a major problem.

Simon owns a miniature schnauzer and owns a website devoted to gathering information about dog skin problems. For more information about hot spots, just click on to find out more about other types of dog mange, and how to help your dog get better.


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Oct 28, 2011 | 0 | Dog grooming, Dog health